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I need to dechlorinate some water flowing at about 5-20 gpm. To do this, I want to build an activated carbon water filter large enough that I don't have to replace the carbon too often. I have some ideas, but information about carbon filters is suprisingly scarce. Does anyone have any ideas about how to design such a filter?
I have been thinking of using a barrel for the housing.

Get a pool sand filter and fill it with Activated carbon instead or or in addition to sand (depends on the screen size and grain size of the carbon).

You didn't mention the chlorine concentration as this will have an impact on sizing and life expectancy of the media.

Sodium Thiosulfate is also used as a dechlorinating agent.

2007-10-04 18:00:21 by baximus_rex

My 20quot; Illadelph Coil Condenser with blue gel and my new Illa Upstem Ashcatcher with matching label and color. Also have my RooR active ...

My fish have a case of fungus. I'm treating it right now with drop in tablets. To use these tablets you have to take out the carbon filter, I assume so the carbon filter doesn't filter out the meds.

It says to give the meds 4 days to work, and if the fungus isn't completely gone to do a 20-25% water change and add another dose.

I plan on doing a second dose. One reason being just so i'm sure it worked, and second i've read a few places that people do a minimum treatment of 7 days.

My question is, is it safe to have the carbon filter out for that long? A probable 8 days. Should I put it back in for a day or two between the two fungus treatments. Or would that extract any left over medication from the first dose, even with in between water change, that needs to be there to help the second dose?

This happened to me!
I left out the filter with no problem. My treatment lasted 10 days. I did have an undergravel filter going though. I did 2 treatments as well and didn't wait between them. I did both back to back.
Hope this helps.

2006-08-09 16:18:30 by reverandho2003

We have a Kinetico water softener system (Mach 2060s) that uses a 20 inch by 2-1/2 inch filter, but I was wondering if somebody sells a granular activated carbon (GAC) filter that would work in this system, so we can filter out radon. I can't find anything and would appreciate it if anyone had some insight into this... Thank you!

Since radon is a gas you really don't need to do anything to your softener system. I'm sure it filters and cleans your water of solid contaminents.
There are several radon detector kits available that will test the air in your house for any trace of radon. Check your local hardware store or places like Menards or Home Depot.
Your local city offices might also know if there is any info for tour area on radon.

2007-08-31 18:38:29 by swirlygirl

I am fairly new to aquariums. My tank has been cycling around 5 weeks. It has fish in it so it has taken a bit longer just because of the increased waste and water changes. I have an Aquaclear 20 filter which came with 3 kinds of media: sponge, charcoal/carbon and the biomax bag. I was planning on cleaning out my filter media during my next water change with some aquarium water in a bucket. However, my question is if I do not need to filter out any chemicals (from medication) can I replace the carbon filter with another biomax insert? I was told by the petstore guy that more beneficial bacteria can be sustained having two biomax bags and the one sponge. Has anyone done this before and is it better?

Also does anyone have any experience specifically with AquaClear Zeo-Carb filter media? Does it work to reduce ammonia and nitrite and will it alter or harm my biological filter?

Unless you're removing medication, the carbon isn't necessary. What the bacteria need is surface area to colonize, so you could add another biomax insert, however with the sponge media and your gravel (the bacteria will live there as well), another biomax insert may be overkill. If you don't have the ammonia production to support the bacteria, extra area won't matter. I've used AquaClears on 55 gallon cichlid tanks without carbon (and before Biomax can out) and didn't have detectable ammonia or nitrite. Where it would come in handy is if you needed to clean one of the units, or needed to set up a hospital/quarantine tank, as the extra unit could be used to "seed" the new tank with bacteria.

If you're still in the cycling process, I'd stay away from the zeolite/ammonia removes. They do work, but they remove the ammonia/nitrite that your bacteria need for their energy source. Same with products like Amquel - they bind these so they're less toxic to your fish, but despite the manufacturers' claims, they don't seem to be as bioavailable to the bacteria, plus they still show up on your water tests. The danger here is that when the amount of chemical is "used up" by the ammonia and nitrite present and more is produced, there's no way to tell the "bound" forms from the "toxic" ones by testing. Best to leave these to true emergency situations, and cycle the tank without them.

2008-03-17 21:41:33 by extreme_foolio

.... I am adding Stability to my new tank to keep my nitrate levels stable? On the bottle it doesn't mention removing the carbon like it does on my anti-bacterial medicine. The stability says it has some bacteria in it, so will the carbon remove these guys?

ive done a 20% water change today, and monitor the water with test strips every other day. but i want to cycle as fast as possible. any help is appreciated.

1. No you do not.
2. I have used Stability by SeaChem when i was starting up my tank and you just put it in! :]
3. Best of luck, also try Cycle if you want

Good luck! If you need anything you can email me. :]

2007-10-12 16:24:46 by Dave A