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A nice Carbon Bottle Cage for a Scott CR1 | BikeCyclingReviews

Steve Huveldt has bought a Scott CR1 SL CD, he read our review and liked what he saw, now he wants to fit carbon bottle cages to his prized Scott and wants to know which carbon cages we think will suit his carbon bike frame. There are quite a lot to choose from, but our BCR Style Monkey has been doing his home work

Question: I just bought a Scott CR1 SL CD and am looking for a nice carbon water bottle cage to compliment it. Any recommendations? And thanks for the reviews of the CR1.

Hi Steve, All the carbon bottle cages do the same thing, they hold your water bottle and price doesn’t seem to make any difference to how well they work, they all hold the bottle tightly at first but as you use it they tend to get loser.

That said they look great, so which ones do we recommend, well here is our list:

Campagnolo

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pair water

How do I renew a pair of water skis?

I just bought a pair of jumpers and there is some sort of detached from the plastic part top of the ski resort. It almost seems a clear coat is coming out of it. I wondered if I could take a very fine sandpaper and sand over it and then recover it with something, I do not want to damage the ski or take any off any decals. Hopefully someone here on YA know how to make some Plexiglas skis new look again. woops fiberglass

It really depends on what is actually peeling. If skiing is the real problem is delamination much more serious, but what this sounds like a seal coat is off decals. If this is the case and the coating is intact you may be able to reattach layer and dispose of all surface scratches with a polystyrene resin that has the consistency of oily water, but normally used for sealing other resins prevent seepage of water. It might also be able to apply a polyurethane resin which is also a resin flow of power, though slightly thicker. Before to use these resins must have a way of securing the damaged layer in place. Probably I suggest a two-step process. First to reattach the loose layer in its normal position, and second to add the new transparent layer on the top surface layer. Just realize that both resins is only for cosmetic fixes. Do not add any type of structural support for the ski resort. You also want to keep the layers of coating as thin as possible to allow to be kept as flexible as possible. For the flexibility of the polyurethane resin, it would probably be more desirable. Polystyrene resins tend to be more fragile and also more of a yellow cured. You can pre-sand the surface with fine sandpaper if you are spreading resin on the back. The resin must fill small scratches. As with any project like this you probably want to experiment with the method of patches in a third key area of the resort before proceeding with the entire project to verify the compatibility of the resins and adhesion properties of each. As I read again through his original question of the solution may be even simpler. What could be a veneer peeling could be applied over the decals. If this is the case of the proposed solution could work very well. It is very difficult to give a solution to this kind of problem, without seeing the item first hand. What might make is to see what will dissolve the plastic. Start with alcohol and paint thinner. I'll probably tell you to stop at that point as the acetone and other solvents really attack different types of fiberglass resin.

Source: pair water

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